Seam fob sewed articles



T. .3. HAYES.

SEAM FOR SEWED ARTICLES.

APPLICATION FILED APR. I, 2916.

E; ,EQfifiifi Patented June 3, 1919.

invenmr Thomas J. Hayes,

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THOMAS J. HAYES, OF ROSLINDALE, IKASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO ARBETTER FELLING- MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEAM FOR SEW'ED ARTICLES.

Specification of Letters Patent.

Patented June 3, 1919.

Original application filed June 19, 1915, Serial No. 35,079. Divided and this application filed April 7, 1916. Serial No. 89,712.

To all whom it may concern Be it known that I, THOMAS J. HAYES, a citizen of the United States, and resident of Roslindale, county of Suffolk, State of l t lassachusetts, have invented an Improvement in Seams for Sewed Articles, of which the following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is a specification, like characters on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention relates to a seam for sewed articles designed to be made by a sewing machine and particularly adapted for use in felling work where an edge, which is preferably an inturned edge of a supcrim posed layer or layers of fabric, is attached to a main layer by blind stitches, that is, stitches entering and emerging from the same face of the work.

In blind stitch seams which have hitherto been made the successive stitches have" usually been placed alternately in the base and in the superimposed layer, the edge of the latter being rolled over more or less upon the setting of the stitch so as to cover the stitches partially or almost entirely. hen such a seam is made between the base layer and a thin superimposed layer or a superimposed layer constructed of loosely woven fabric the stress placed upon the stitches in the superimposed layer causes a pulling of thesthreads at substantially right angles to the edge resulting in undesirable wrinkles or checks in the superimposed layer.

One of the objects of the present invention is to provide a seam in which this checking of the superimposed layer is avoided. This is accomplished in the preferred embodiment of the invention disclosed herein by fastening the layers together by one or more rows of stitches comprising a thread presenting a series of loops and means for concatenating said loops, the embedded portion of some stitches lying wholly in the base layer and the embedded portion of other stitches, preferably alternate stitches, lying partially in the base layer and partially in the superimposed layer? By this construction the thread is at all times anchored in the base layer and the superimposed. layer is drawn down upon the base layer more directly than in seams heretofore constructed, thus avoiding the rolling action of the thread upon the superimposed layer and consequently eliminating the checking of the superimposed layer which is caused by this rolling action.

Other features of the invention will more fully appear from the accompanying drawing and will be particularly pointed out in the annexed claims.

Figure 1 is a perspective view showing the base layer with a superimposed layer secured thereto by a preferred form of seam embodying my invention, and,

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of a preferred form of seam partially completed showing the threads in full lines and the base and superimposed layer in dotted lines.

The seam illustrated in the drawings shows the base and superimposed layer in greatly exaggerated dimensions and the line of stitching uniting the layers in a somewhat distorted position owing to the factthat the threads lie in different planes, both vertical and horizontal. This form of illustration is selected for the reason that it shows more clearly the concatenations of the stitches and the portions which are embedded respectively in the base and superimposed layers.

It will be understood also that the points of concatenation of the loops between the two threads forming the stitches may vary in position relatively to the surfaces of the fabric depending upon the tension applied to the threads and that the locking points of the loops may be drawn into the base layer of the fabric or left upon the surface of the fabric or in some instances drawn into the superimposed layer as may be found desirable under different conditions of work. It in ay be stated however that the main purpose of the invention is to provide a seam which will be substantially or wholly concealed and which will maintain the under surface of the superimposed layer tightly in contact with the upper surface of the main or base layer.

The sea-m of this invention may be made by hand but it is particularly designed to be made by a lock stitch sewing machine such for example as that disclosed in my co-pending application No. 35,079, filed June 19, 1915, of which this application is a division.

The seam illustrated in the drawing serves to unite the main or base layer 1 with a superimposed layer 2 having its edge 3 inturned in manner common in ordinary felling work in the construction of a garment.

In making the seam forming the subject matter of this invention two threads are employed which may be described as the needle thread l and the bobbin thread 5, although so far as the structure of the seam is con cerned it is immaterial whether the seam be made by a machine or by hand, or by whatparticular instrumentality the threads are placed in position in the work.

The seam illustrated in the drawing will be described as made by a machine in which 7 the needle thread is manipulated by a curved oscillating needle having an eye near its point, said needle being vibrated laterally in different parallel planes between the base and superimposed layer, said planes preferably being inclined to the work supporting surface of the work support and substan tially parallel to the line of feed. The base layer is presented to the needle by a bender upon each forward oscillation of the needle. When the needle is oscillating in a plane near the edge of the superimposed layer the point of the needle will emerge from the base layer under the edge of the superimposed layer and will not enter the latter. hen however the needle is vibrated or shogged farther beneath the edge of the superimposed layer its inclination will cause it to enter first the base layer which is presented to it by the bender, and emerging from the base layer will immediately enter the superimposed layer, emerging from the latter at a point under or beneath the edge thereof.

The bobbin. thread which concatenates the loops of needle thread preferably is inserted by means of the familiar type of rotary hook and inclosed bobbin and bobbin case such as is illustrated in the application aforesaid, but any other suitable instrumentality may be utilized for manipulating this thread.

In the construction illustrated in the drawing the loop of needle thread is shown first as entering the base layer, beneath the superimposed layer, at a point 6 and emerging therefrom at a point 7 beneath and nearer the edge of the superimposed layer. Upon its emergence from said layer the bobbin thread 5 is passed through the loop of needle thread and when the stitch is set by the take-up the concatenated loops preferably caused to lie at a point 8 in the base layer between the surfaces thereof. The work is then fed forward and the needle shogged so that its plane of oscillation extends from beneath the superimposed layer. The base layer is then elevated by the bender so that upon its neXt oscillation the needle penetrates the base layer at a point 9 emerging therefrom at a point 10, immediately entering the superimposed layer at the point 11, and emerging from the latter at the point 12. The bobbin thread is then passed through the loop of needle thread and the stitch set by the take-up so that the looking portions of the concatenated loops lie preferably in the superimposed layer at a point 13.

For the second stitch in the base layer the work is fed forward and the needle shogged so as to oscillate in a plane nearer the edge of the superimposed layer so that upon the next oscillation of the'needle it enters the base layer at the point 16 and emerges therefrom at the point 17. Upon the retraction of the needle the bobbin thread 5 is passed through the loop of needle thread and upon the setting of the stitch by the take-up the concatenated loops lie at the point 18 in the base layer between the surfaces thereof. The fabric is then again fed forward and the needle shogged so that it oscillates in the plane from beneath the superimposed layer and upon the. next oscillation, the base layer being bent upwardly as aforesaid the needle enters the base layer at the point 19, emerges from the base layer at a point 20, immediately enters the superimposed layer at a point 21 and emerges therefrom at the. point 22' Upon the re traction of the needle the bobbin thread is passed through the loop as before and upon the setting of the stitch by the take-up the concatenated loops drawn into the superimposed layer lying at the point 23 therein.

Succeeding stitches are made in the same manner, one set of stitches comprising series of loops passing through both the base and superimposed layers and the other set of stitches comprising loops passing through the base layer only the loops of needle thread being concatenated by the bobbin thread in the usual manner.

While in the seam illustrated hereinalternate stitches pass first through both a por tion of the base and superimposed layers and second through the base layer alone, by reason of the fact that the bender is caused to rise upon each forward oscillation of the needle it is not essential that these alternating series of stitches shall be maintained but two or more stitches may be taken in the base layer between the stitches which penetrate both the base and superimposed layers, by varying the timing of the needle shogging mechanism.

The seam is illustrated in the drawings as constructed by a curved needle which oscillates in two parallel planes at different distances from the edge of the superimposed layer one farther beneath the edge of the superimposed layer than the other, however, a seam embodying the present invention may be constructed without the shogging of the needle by causing the bender to rise to different heights so that in one of its oscillations the needle will penetrate only the base layer and in another alternating series of oscillations will be thrust to such height that the needle will pass through both the base and a. portion of the superimposed layers.

In any of the cases above mentioned the seam has the same characteristics, in that all of the loops of needle thread penetrate through a portion of the base layer between the surface thereof and in certain of the stitches penetrate through the base layer between the surface thereof and emerging therefrom enter the under surface of the superimposed layer emerging from the latter at a point under or near the edge of said superimposed layer.

By reason of this construction it will be obvious that as the stitches are successively set the superimposed layer will be drawn down directly upon the base layer without material rolling action and that the surface of the superimposed layer will be maintained tightly in contact with the upper surface of the main or base layer.

Having thus described my invention, What I claim as new and desire to secure by Letters Patent is;

1. A seam for sewed articles comprising a base layer of fabric, a superimposed layer presenting an edge thereon, said layers being fastened together by stitches comprising a needle thread presenting a series of loops the strands of which enter and emerge from the upper surface of the base layer without passing through the under surface of said layer, and means for concatenating said loops, the embedded portion of certain of said loops of needle thread lying wholly within the base layer beneath the edge of the superimposed layer and the embedded portions of other of said loops lying partially in the base layer and partially in the superim posed layer.

2. A seam for sewed articles comprising a base layer of fabric; a superimposed layer presenting an edge thereon; said layers be ing fastened together by stitches comprising a needle thread presenting a series of loops the strands of which enter and emerge from the upper surface of the base layer without passing through the under surface of said layer, and means for concatenating said loops; the embedded portions of the loops of needle thread of alternating stitches lying respectively the one wholly in the base 1 yer beneath the edge of the superimposed layer and the other partially in the base layer and partially in the superimposed layer.

3. A seam for sewed articles comprising a base layer of fabric; a superimposed layer presenting an edge thereon; said layers being fastened together by stitches comprising two series of loops of needle thread lying respectively in different planes in respect to the edge of the superimposed layer the strands of said loops entering and emerging from the upper surface of the base layer without passing through the under surface of said layer; means for concatenating said loops; the embedded portion of the loops of needle thread of one series lying Wholly within the base layer and the embedded portions of the. other loops of needle thread lying partially in the base layer beneath the edge of the superimposed layer and partially in the superimposed layer whereby all the stitches are anchored in the base layer and the superimposed layer is drawn directly down upon the base layer.

at. A seam for sewed articles comprising a base layer of fabric, a superimposed layer presenting an edge thereon, said layers be ing fastened together by stitches comprising two series of loops of needle thread in different parallel planes and means for concatenating said loops, the embedded portion of certain of the loops of needle thread extending at regular intervals from points on the upper edge of the base layer through the base layer between the surfaces thereof, and the embedded portions of the other row of loops of needle thread extending from points on the upper surface of the base layer through the base layer between its surfaces and emerging from the upper surface of the base layer into the under surface of the superimposed layer super-adjacent the base layer, through the superimposed layer between the surfaces thereof and out of said layer at a point at or beneath the edge of the superimposed layer.

5. A seam for sewed articles comprising a main layer of fabric, a superimposed layer presenting an inturned edge thereon; said layers being fastened together by stitches comprising a needle thread presenting two rows of loops and a second thread passing successively through and concatenating said loops, the embedded portion of the loops of one row of stitches extending at regular intervals from points on the upper surface of the base layer beneath the superimposed layer, through the base layer, between the surfaces thereof, and out of the upper surface of the base layer, the embedded portions the latter at a point adjacent or under the of the loops of the other row of stitches eX- edge thereof whereby a concealed blind 10 tending at regular intervals from points on stitch seam is presented by which the superthe upper surface of the base layer beneath imposed layer is drawn directly down upon the superimposed layer, through the base the base layer.

layer between the surfaces thereof, out of the In testimony whereof I have signed my upper surface of the base layer, into the surname to this specification. face of the superimposed layer and Out of THOMAS J. HAYES.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for five cents each, by addressing the Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D, G. 

